Are you considering installing a natural gas range in your home?
I did it myself and I have some great practical advice for installing a natural gas stove in your home. I also had to add onto the existing natural gas supply line in my home to make this work.
It’s been quite an ambitious learning experience for me but it’s also been a rewarding one, as well.
Why? Because it was easier than I thought and I saved a wad of cash.
We switched out our old electric coil range with a natural gas stove. If you’re thinking about doing the same or possibly want to extend your existing natural gas lines to a new outdoor grill, for instance, I invite you to get comfortable and heed my advice. The same principles will apply in dealing with cast iron pipe.
Put your common sense on overdrive and read on.
What I Had To Do To Install The Gas Range – Part 1
Disclaimer: I am NOT a licensed plumber and this is not a How-To website. I am simply sharing my experience with installing a gas range. Ask advice from professionals before considering this type of project and add my practical experience for good measure. If you have ANY reservations about attempting this type of project, call a professional to handle it for you. This is NOT a project to be taken lightly. Check with your homeowners’ insurance carrier for details on this project before attempting.
If you choose to follow the techniques, approaches and methods shown on this site, then you follow them at your own risk. In no way will the publishers of this website be held liable for any injuries or damages, direct or consequential, incurred by any person who attempts to follow the examples shown herein.
The information in this article assumes that you have natural gas previously available in your home.
The Gas Leak Test
This part of the job is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. No shortcuts allowed here. When everything was completely connected, I turned the gas back on at the meter and mixed a concoction of half and half of dishwashing liquid and water in a small glass per the Home Depot guy and what I had read on do-it-yourself websites. I stirred it around and grabbed a rag. I then proceeded to dab the rag in the glass and dabbed it onto each and every connection looking for bubbles. You MUST give a 360 degree look on each connection. Otherwise, you’re rolling the dice with your life and your loved ones. If you don’t see ANY bubbles forming, you’re golden. GIVE THE BUBBLES TIME TO FORM. The bubbles may not form right away so take your time with this step…please!!! Then…wait a day, or two for the joint compound to cure and go back and cleanse each joint with clear water. This will prevent the compound from corroding over time.***An added bonus to installing a natural gas stove was this $200 rebate that we’ll get from Atlanta Gas Light Co. just for installing a new gas stove. Check with your gas provider for available rebates, if available.
Preventing Problems with Combustion Equipment
Use a properly sized range hood fan if you use a gas range.
All kitchens should have exhaust ventilation to remove odors and excess moisture associated with cooking. While there are various ventilation strategies for kitchens, a range hood is the most common. When using a gas range, a range hood directly vented to the outside should be used to capture the combustion products. These range hoods should be sized correctly. For a typical kitchen range the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) and the Home Ventilation Institute (HVI) recommend 100 cfm. Larger fans may need to have makeup air provided to avoid excessively depressurizing the house, causing backdrafting or other problems.
After installation of combustion and/or ventilation equipment, combustion equipment should be tested to be sure that it functions properly.
It is important that your installer conducts a worst-case depressurization test. This combustion safety test determines if any non-sealed combustion appliances will backdraft or spill combustion products into the living space. Tell your installer this test should use an established procedure such as Appendix D of the International Fuel and Gas Code or ASTM E1998 “Guide for Assessing Backdrafting and Spillage from Vented Combustion Appliances”.
Part 2 of this post will explain why we chose a natural gas stove vs electric.
Part 3 of this post will contain the electric plug conversion and the actual delivery/installation of the gas range from Sears. I currently have a 220-240 volt (don’t know…that’s why I’m hiring an electrician) hardwired connection so the electrician will need to disconnect that and pull a new line from the panel or add on from the existing current within the kitchen line because the new range runs on a regular 120V line. We’ll just need to have a regular plug installed behind the stove.