How To Install A Natural Gas Range and How To Add A Gas Supply Line
Are you considering installing a natural gas range in your home?
I did it myself and I have some great practical advice for installing a natural gas stove in your home. I also had to add onto the existing natural gas supply line in my home to make this work.
It's been quite an ambitious learning experience for me but it's also been a rewarding one, as well.
Why? Because it was easier than I thought and I saved a wad of cash.
We switched out our old electric coil range with a natural gas stove. If you're thinking about doing the same or possibly want to extend your existing natural gas lines to a new outdoor grill, for instance, I invite you to get comfortable and heed my advice. The same principles will apply in dealing with cast iron pipe.
Put your common sense on overdrive and read on.
What I Had To Do To Install The Gas Range - Part 1
Disclaimer: I am NOT a licensed plumber and this is not a How-To website. I am simply sharing my experience with installing a gas range. Ask advice from professionals before considering this type of project and add my practical experience for good measure. If you have ANY reservations about attempting this type of project, call a professional to handle it for you. This is NOT a project to be taken lightly. Check with your homeowners' insurance carrier for details on this project before attempting.
If you choose to follow the techniques, approaches and methods shown on this site, then you follow them at your own risk. In no way will the publishers of this website be held liable for any injuries or damages, direct or consequential, incurred by any person who attempts to follow the examples shown herein.
The information in this article assumes that you have natural gas previously available in your home.
I had the associate at Home Depot cut to length all 3 pieces. He cut them, reamed them and then threaded them, all on one machine. It took about 10-15 minutes due to the constant interruptions from other customers and Depot associates asking this guy questions. I obviously had one of the more experienced employees on site. That made me feel good about the advice I was given and confirmed what I had read on a couple of other websites.
The Gas Leak Test
You MUST give a 360 degree look on each connection. Otherwise, you're rolling the dice with your life and your loved ones. If you don't see ANY bubbles forming, you're golden. GIVE THE BUBBLES TIME TO FORM. The bubbles may not form right away so take your time with this step...please!!! Then...wait a day, or two for the joint compound to cure and go back and cleanse each joint with clear water. This will prevent the compound from corroding over time.
***An added bonus to installing a natural gas stove was this $200 rebate that we'll get from Atlanta Gas Light Co. just for installing a new gas stove. Check with your gas provider for available rebates, if available.
Preventing Problems with Combustion Equipment
Use a properly sized range hood fan if you use a gas range.
"All kitchens should have exhaust ventilation to remove odors and excess moisture associated with cooking. While there are various ventilation strategies for kitchens, a range hood is the most common. When using a gas range, a range hood directly vented to the outside should be used to capture the combustion products. These range hoods should be sized correctly. For a typical kitchen range the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) and the Home Ventilation Institute (HVI) recommend 100 cfm. Larger fans may need to have makeup air provided to avoid excessively depressurizing the house, causing backdrafting or other problems.After installation of combustion and/or ventilation equipment, combustion equipment should be tested to be sure that it functions properly.
It is important that your installer conducts a worst-case depressurization test. This combustion safety test determines if any non-sealed combustion appliances will backdraft or spill combustion products into the living space. Tell your installer this test should use an established procedure such as Appendix D of the International Fuel and Gas Code or ASTM E1998 "Guide for Assessing Backdrafting and Spillage from Vented Combustion Appliances"
The above was quoted from the EPA on Indoor Air Quality in Homes/Residences.
- Look for part 2 of this post to explain why we chose a natural gas stove vs electric.
- Part 3 of this post will be the electric plug conversion and the actual delivery/installation of the gas range from Sears. I currently have a 220-240 volt (don't know...that's why I'm hiring an electrician) hardwired connection so the electrician will need to disconnect that and pull a new line from the panel or add on from the existing current within the kitchen line because the new range runs on a regular 120V line. We'll just need to have a regular plug installed behind the stove.
Resources:
Jim...
Which sub-code are you referring to? There are just over 180 sub-codes for DOT 192.
http://www.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_00/49cfr192_00.html
Randy,
The international Fuel gas code is the standard code pertaining to natural gas piping in most of the states in the US. Some still go by the National fuel gas code or have amended one or the other with state legislated requirments. I have been in the natural gas industry for 20 years and I am a licensed plumber. In general persons are allowed to work on their fuel lines in their own home. Some of the local jurisdictions (local building codes) have passed ordinances requiring the work to be performed by a local licensed plumber or gas fitter. There are also usually permiting requirements that could be mandated as well. I would recomend checking with the local authority or gas company before begining work.
While working on your own gas line is not usually a problem. Doing anything to the gas meter even cutting it off is a violation of Federal Law. Anyone who does anything on a pipeline up to and including the outlet swivel must be operator qualified in accordance with the DOT 192 requirements. Shuting off the quarter turn valve may not seem to be much of a problem, but in my 20 years I have had many licensed plumbers and HVAC contractors to damage regulators and meters when they turned the system back on. This could potentially overpressure the system the the point of creating a very dangerous situation. In most situations the local gas company would come out and turn it off for you until repairs are made and then turn it back on. Always contact the local gas authority before you do any gas work. They can provide you with the info to keep you safe.
I recently had a new Natural Gas clothes dryer delivered only to find out that the flexible hose hookup that came with it is too short to reach the supply line. I removed the old 6" extension below the local shutoff valve and capped "T". I then added a 36" long threaded black pipe with a union on the end. I used pipe thread compound on all male ends and tightened all connectors as tightly as I could. I am ready to turn the local gas valve back on and test for leaks. Is there anything I am missing ie "pressurizing" that 36" section from the local valve down to clothes dryer? Thanks
Lillian and Greg,
I do not feel comfortable advising you on your question because I am not a certified gas fitter or a plumber. I will tell you that what I've read would lead me to belive that you cannot do what you want to do without increasing the gas pipe size to allow the proper amount of gas and proper amount of pressure to tap into the stove line.
On my particular project, I tapped into the main line just inside the house after the entry point so the diameter of the pipe was as large as the line coming in.
Hope that helps you out. If not, contact the gas company or a licensed fitter and/or plumber for your answer.
We would like to install a gas dryer. Can we tie into the existing line running to a gas stove? If so, where would you recommend that we tie into the line and what is used to do this? Thanks!
Great read, Randy. Thanks for sharing your experience. I am doing pretty much the exact same thing, but I had one questions about your electrician's wiring job. I see the pics on your other post where the electrician removes the old 50A breaker, but I don't see how he connects the new 20A breaker. The reason I ask is that many 20A breakers only accept 12 gauge wire, but the wire that was running for your stove was probably 10 gauge or larger. Did he pigtail 12 gauge wire inside the main panel? Or did your 20A breaker accept the thicker wire?
Duly noted, Robert.
Not sure why you'd need to re-pipe the entire lot of pipe, though. All I did was add a 9 ft. extension off of a pre-existing outlet on the gas line inside of the house that was left by the builder when the house was built.
Thank you for your concern.
Many thanks for sharing your expertise. My range / stove replacement went eazy-peezy!
I am from England and in this country anyone who is NOT qualified or Gas Safe registered would be breaking the law if they mess about with the gas supply themselves.As a fully qualified gas engineer myself,If I was called out to your house Randy,I would cap off your gas supply at the meter outlet then repipe it all for you which would cost you a lot more money but would probably save your house and peoples lives
sac,
The electrician left the wire in place and, basically, used "half" of the wire. It's been awhile but I asked the electrician the same exact question as you.
Randy
tanner
Glad to hear about your successful gas line project.
Randy
Randy,
I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing. Did your electrician have to run a new wire for the 110 or did he use the existing 220 wire. If he reused, what did he do with the extra wire? Really enjoyed reading your article
I followed these instructions loosely and installed a gas line for a new gas dryer. Luckily, the gas range line ran in a very close proximity, in the ceiling. So I T-ed off and ran about 5 feet of black pipe. Turned out ok.
David,
You need to check your local building codes. In my area, flexible copper pipe is not allowed over a certain length...something like 3 - 6 feet. Sounds like your run is right on the limit.
I'm adding a gas stove to my house, where there was not one before, so am needing to bring gas to the stove location. Is it generally legal (or acceptable) to use flexible copper pipe for this run of about 6 feet?
There was no mention on how they calculated the BTU rating on the size of line. What is the rating of 1" black cs pipe?
Elaine...
30 inches of clearance is sufficient.
We have a microwave/vent fan over our electric stove top. We want to convert to gas. Is there a guideline requiring distance from stove top to bottom of microwave?
You did a really good job!!
I am chinese supplier of natural gas regulators,you know...to reduce the high pressure(when transporting) to low.... you can find it in the box of your home where natural gas comes out...
I can ask our engineer here to advice you how to improve your system or leakage test bla bla things....if you need,contact me at exportlee@163.com :D
Hello All,
I work as a gas service technician for a large gas utility. I would have anyone whom is not a profesional, AT LEAST have a service tech from your local gas utility come out and do a safety check. The utility that I work for does not charge anything to come out and check an installation for safety (weather by a homeowner or a contractor).
Michael,
You would need to contact your county office that handles building codes and ordinances for your answer.
Chris,
The short answer is that gravity will pull whatever moisture there is in the system downward into the small extension rather than proceed into your appliance. I believe you are supposed to put one at the bottom of every vertical climb. Hope that helps.
I noticed that right before your pipe goes back up through the floor, there is a T with a capped of extension headed down. What is the purpose of this and how often do you need this?
Is it legal to install an elbow between the gas pipe coming out of the wall and the shut off valve?
Thank You
Thanks for your insight, Ryan.
Pipe dope that is approved for use on Natural gas is okay, teflon tape approved for use on Natural gas is okay, and all male threads on cast and threaded pieces need to be sealed with either dope or tape. Machined threads do not need sealent (like the pieces on the flexible gas line unions)
Thank you Randy.
The man at our local hardware store (OSH) recommended, and sold me, yellow tape which appears to be teflon.
He said nothing about pipe dope.
DJO
What is th typical gas load for a single family house with a hot water heater, furnce and stove?
Thanks
Vlad...
Sorry, I can't answer that one for you. Contact a plumber, or two, to get a good answer.
DJ...
I don't think teflon tape is EVER supposed to be used for gas fittings. Only use T2 pipe dope compound...period! That should stop any leak you're having if the pipe threads are good at the connection.
Some gas fittings need teflon tape and others do not. Is there a standard rule for which is which? On my new range installation I cannot stop the leaks AT the stove connection. Any suggestions?
Randy,
I am not sure that you have an answer or not, but I am trying to replace my old oil boiler with new gas boiler. National Grid agreed to get the line to the house, but latter they told me that they couldn't get the line to the side of the house where the boiler room is, only to opposite side.
What option do I have?
Thank you in advance.
Vlad
Randy,
Thanks for the article. We just paid a plumber to install the gas lines, however, he put the wrong type of connecter for our double oven to slide it. Do know if it is difficult to move the direction of the adapter or install a different type of adapter? Thanks for helping guide me in the right direction to find the information.
Jennifer
Randy,
This is truly beyond my expertise. If it were me, I would contact a professional or, at least, register with a couple of good plumbing/HVAC-type forums on the web that have professionals chiming in and administering the forum. Hard to go wrong there if you're willing and able to do the job yourself.
Hello,
I have a question. I am remodeling my kitchen, and have moved the gas stove to another wall. Original gas line (metal) is coming up through the floor in the middle of the room. The house is on a concrete slab. Pipe's elbow is below floor. Is there a plug system that will allow me to cut off the pipe at the floor level and then seal it? I have done hvac for 30 years so this is not my first rodeo, however I really do not want to cut into the concrete and plug the line.
Thanks for any suggestion
Randy
All this is great but lets remember, if you are not sure have a professional do it. Natural Gas is nothing to play with, there was a situation where someone replaced some gas lines in a home and the home had a explosion because of a loose fitting. And there was loss of life because of the explosion. I have 25yrs of Natural Gas experience and you learn something everyday. Any questions I will try and lead you in the right directions.
thanks Randy
The T connector should work, i just now get the right size T connector.
Randy-
I agree I already bought all new fitings. Thanks
Scott
Scott...you need to use all new material. I've read that the reason for using all new material is to insure that the threads are clean as a whistle and do not have any residual pipe dope from previous use. Cast iron pipe is fairly cheap so don't let your frugality get in the way of your safety.
Amrit...I haven't seen a Y joint before but you should certainly be able to add a T in there for your needs. You might need to have a pro come in to check the gas pressure to make sure it is where it needs to be for your add-ons.
hello, i have a hot water heater in the garage, and want to put a stove near it also. do they make some type of Y adapter that i can add that'll allow me to have one flex pipe going to the heater and one to the stove
I am moving a gas line about 36". Can I re use any elbows or T's form the move or should it all be brand new? Also, I read that anytime you change your gas line or what you are connecting it to you need to get new gas line connectors is this true? Thanks.
jb...that is a question that only you can truly answer. You know your skill level better than anyone.
installing gas.had electric.no gas servise at site where new range goes.will have to run gas line from furnace or water heater area to new range area and convert 220 to 110 at location. can a good handyman accomplish this
Michele,
You'll need to go back and remove the plumber's tape from your connections and replace it with T2 pipe joint compound (after turning off the gas first, of course!). Then re-attach everything, turn the gas back on and perform the leak test I describe in my article. If you're 100% sure you have no leaks, try your range again. Or call a plumber that is experienced in gas pipe installations and let them stop your leak. Commenter, Larry Fischer, mentions a pressure gauge. Look into that, also.
hi i have a problem with my gas stove my sister gave me i installed it checked all the connectors and used plumers tape but i still smell gas even with the burners and oven pilot lit what else can i do
I dont see mention of a pressure gauge anywhere - maybe I missed it. Required for passing the permit where I live. $15 gauge lets you pressurize your pipe with air before you put gas in...
hey littlebet...
I didn't purge the gas line on my project and there were no complications. I did hear the sound of the gas re-filling the line when I cut it on. It lasted about 1/2 second and that was it. You can purge the line, though, by simply turning the gas line on with the valve shut and then easing it open until you smell gas. Then close it again and attaching your appliance.
Hope that helps.
We were hopeing to add a gas line ourselves so we have been reading up on the subject to get as much info as we can. We had a question about purgeing the line when installing the new gas line? I was hopeing somone would ask about that. No one has, so if you could give me some info on how to do that or is it really important to purge the line? Thanks.
Glad to hear about your success with your project, Johnny. It's a great feeling isn't it. I'm also glad you found my article helpful for your project.
This was a great article to find. I just finished adding 21 feet of piping for the gas range I got for my wife. She spends 90% of her time in the kitchen, so it made sense. I saved over $500 by doing this myself. The toughest part was re-lighting the pilot lights for the furnace and water heater. (The water heater has a pretty old thermocouple.) I just kept the heat of the lighter on it 'til it stayed lit. I also had to detach and move my water heater to get to the gas line. I took off the line to the water heater and furnace, twisted the elbow off the end of the main pipe, and added a "T" and the new extension.
whiskey girl (hmmmmm)....
I'm not familiar with requirements of a convection range/oven but I'd be willing to bet that your range came with an instruction manual. Give that a shot and if you still don't see minimum requirements for distance from the wall, I would call the manufacturer from the phone number provided in your manual. You might also want to check with the retailer you bought it from.
Do you know where to look to find out how far from the wall my freestanding range is supposed to be? My new one was actually connected by a plumber and leveled by a fella from the service dept. of the store I bought it from. Neither commented that anything was amiss, but it's practically touching the wall and that just seems wrong, especially since it has a convection. Thanks in advance (meanwhile, I'll keep googling!)
Does anyone know how to fix a leak in a bendable copper gas line...it appears to be @ 1/4 inch thick piping that leads to my gas stove. It was creased and now has a leak at the crease.
I am interested to know if we can put a gas stove in place of our electric because we have 17" space to the bottom of a vented microwave?
Jean...
I wanted to use flex pipe for my project also but I was told that it would be a code violation in my county. So...find out if it is allowed in your city/county and make your decision from there. I've seen it used in various gas pipe applications for the whole run on some DIY websites but in my county, apparently, I am only allowed to make the final 3-4 ft run with flex to make the connection to the appliance.
Hope that helps.
I just had a plumber check out my home to change electric range to gas. He suggested flex type pipe instead of iron. What is your opinion on this type pipe?
connie
I would suggest that you drop in on a forum that specializes in your type of situation and that has many qualified technicians that know the technical data.
Gardenweb is one forum you should check into.
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/plumbing/
Do you know if I can put an outside venting microwave over a 30" gas range? It exhuasts 300 cfm.
Great post learned a lot, thanks. Would you know how to tap into an existing installation that doesn't have a open nipple available? I would like to replace an elbow with a "T" connector but am unsure how I would be able to do that without backing off threaded connections. I'm not even sure that can be done. I couldn't find anything on the internet that would apply to my situation. Thanks.
Excellent advice. However, I would suggest that the pressure testing is more important than testing described with soap bubbles. You pressurize the segment, with a gas pressure gage in the segment, using a compressor. That is more scientific to check gas leak. Then hook up to main gas line after removing the gage, etc. May be someone qualified can provide the pressure and time needed to keep it pressurized. I saw time only about 30 minutes. If pressure decreases after the test period, then you have a leak. Maybe someone know a site where the test and equipment are described?
I am going to try installing a gas line, this weekend. Wish Me LUCK !!!!!!
Cindy...
Sounds like you need to call a plumber. Be sure to give them all of the details of your situation before they come out.
I recently had a leak in my line to my gas range and the gas man
removed the old line. I have looked everywhere and I can't find a new one
that fits my valve and stove. My stove is older and so is the house.
Where do I go?
Joann...
If it were me, I would not put an electric or gas range on top of carpeting. I would cut out the carpet from the wall out to just in front of where the range sticks out and lay down some linoleum, Pergo, etc. and put an edging strip to make it a smooth transition.
Please refer to your manufacturers' instruction safety manual for more information. They will probably have a telephone number you can call for specific heat dissipation requirements for flooring.
I want to know is there something you need to put under the gas range to deflect the heat ?? I have carpet in my kitchen and am worried about fires
Nancy...
I'm not qualified to answer your question but here are a couple of links to helpful forums where others need help with this sort of thing, as well.
National Association of Certified Home Inspectors
http://www.nachi.org/forum/
iVillage GardenWeb forum
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/appl/
There are other forums out there that may be able to better answer your question than the ones that I offer.
You should also just start doing some research of the major appliance manufacturers to see what their specs are and see if it matches your needs.
Good luck!
Hi, Randy
We had new kitchen cabinets installed. There will only be a 17"
clearance from countertop adjacent to the stove to the bottom of the top
cabinet. The inspector will not pass the inspection because he says there
needs to be an 18" clearance. He says this is a manufacturers'
requirement for gas range installation. He said if we can find a manufacturer
that states we need 17" or less clearance, it would pass. Do you know
of any manufacturers that make a stove with the 17" or less
requirement? Our house is in St. Petersburg, Florida. Thanks.
Randy,
Thank you for your reply. You are absolutely right -- I was very nervous about tackling a gas line connection by myself. Note the "was" in that sentence. :) As of about 20 minutes ago, I am no longer nervous, and (drum roll please) we have flamage! :) I re-read lots of comments on your site, along with lots of research, talking with Home Depot, Lowes, and finally my local appliance dealer where I had purchased my gas dryer. They said "you can do it in 5 minutes. Come on in and we'll show you how." So that's what I did, and lo and behold, it really was as easy as they said, and as your site says. I tested everything carefully, used the compound paste, and tightened the connections as tight as I could get them. And voila! The range works, there are no leaks and no smells.
So, I wish to thank you for helping yet one more person get a little courage and get the job done themselves. I am tickled pink with my new gas range, and the dollars saved by doing the labor myself truly makes a wonderful difference.
Thank you for providing a bit of internet encouragement. People really do read your site and try to learn.
Best regards,
Mrs. Judy Spiker-Larsen
Mount Vernon, Washington
JSL...
It sounds like you are a little nervous about dealing with the gas pipe...and for good reason. I had some of the same reservations about whether or not I should mess with it but came to the conclusion, after a lot of research (internet and face-to-face with professionals) that it is not a difficult task that can be handled by handy homeowners.
The decision ultimately hinges upon whether or not you feel 100% positive that you are doing the right thing based upon your findings. If not, rest easy and hire the contractor for your peace of mind.
I am not an electrician or a plumber so take my personal experience and take it under consideration in your decision making.
Hi There - thanks so much for offering your experience for others to learn. I just got a replacement gas range for my now-defunct electric one, and have done all the labor to get the new range in place. Its just waiting for the gas line to be connected to the existing gas outlet (we plumbed the entire house for natural gas years ago and have slowly added one gas appliance at time -- this time its the range). I am a bit nervous about connecting the gas line to the range myself, even if its only about a 12" span from connection to appliance. Can a layman really do this, or should an expensive contractor be called in? (Note, I got the range at a super low price of $150 on a clearance sale... the contractors I've checked with want $125 to do 10 minutes worth of work connecting the gas line, and I've already done all the rest of the labor myself. Is it really worth doubling my cost to hire the contractor?)
Great to hear about your successful project, Ben.
Your wire wheel and pipe brush comments are a nice addition to the project to make doubly sure you have no leaks.
Thanks for the compliment.
Just wanted to say THANKS. I was a bit concerned with doing a natural gas job myself, but being a seasoned handyman, I wanted to try. Reading about your gas line project gave me the confidence to do it. My new furnace is purring away as I write this, and I saved a BUNCH of cash. Two things I did which are not in your post, I put a wire wheel on my drill and thouroughly cleaned all my pipe nipples, and bought two of those pipe brushes and cleaned the inside of all my elbows, couplings, and my one union. No leaks! Man, it sure is hot in here.
Tony...good point.
Read the info within this link from doityourself.com to answer your question regarding kitchen exhaust vent hoods. I have read similar imformation elsewhere but this sums it up.
http://forum.doityourself.com/showpost.php?p=906326&postcount=8
Go here also:
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/homes/hip-combustion.html#Use%20a%20properly%20sized%20range%20hood%20fan
If you are installing a gas range, consult the owners manual for specific details on venting requirements for your model.
Randy - where do you discuss proper venting requirements for a gas range, and what venting do you have for it?
Great question, Piston S.
I turned off the power on the dual fuel furnace blower by simply flicking the switch to OFF next to the furnace blower and I also turned off the gas at the water heater. When I had finished the job, I simply flicked the switch back ON to the furnace and re-lit the flame on the water heater per the instructions.
A note regarding the furnace. My dual fuel furnace blower is new and has automatic electronic ignition so your furnace, if older, may need to be re-lit manually. I know I would have had to do that with the old one if it were still installed. The furnace is basically never aflame until the emergency heat is turned on at the thermostat. Otherwise, the heat pump heats the house.
I too will be installing a natural gas stove replacing an electric one. Question: when you shut of your gas at the meter, what precautions did you take with the other appliances that are on natural gas such as the water heater and furnace?
Thanks
Jeanine,
The best advice I can give you regarding keeping within county code is to call your
county building permits and licenses department and tell them what you want to do and ask
what the local building code requires. Of course, that may possibly mean that an
inspector will be assigned to your job and it will need to pass inspection when the work
is complete.
Another thing you could do is talk to different contractors and (knowledgeable) home
improvement store personnel, as well as looking online at DIY websites, until you get a
good understanding of what exactly the job entails. When you start hearing and reading
the same answers you know you're on the right track. That is exactly what I did.
Take the time to read all 3 posts here at The Fun Times Guide To Homebuilding to tack on
to your gas range installation "knowledge quest". You're probably right about it not
being such a big deal. If you have no cabinetry to rip out in order to move the stove
then it is probably just a matter of relocating the black iron pipe. Who knows, the
corrugated metal gas pipe may reach to where you want it to go.
Keep in mind that I am NOT a licensed plumber, just an enthusiastic homeowner.
Good luck and thanks for taking the time to comment on my website.
Hi
We are in the process of remodeling our kitchen and wanted to know how much work needs to be done to install a gas range stove? we're thinking about getting a non licensed contractor to do our work, it would be half the cost but we wanted to make sure the job is up to code, is there a check list we can go by to ensure the necessary steps are taken in the installation? I just don't see that it would be a big problem, we are replacing a gas stove with a gas stove and we're moving over the stove only by a foot.If you can offer any suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated.
DeLynn...Good to hear from you.
As you probably are aware, if you go from gas to electric, you will have to change the plug from a 120V to a 240V and change the breaker from a 20-30 amp to a 40-50 amp depending on the model. About the only advice I can offer to save money there is either you have to feel very comfortable working with electricity and do it yourself OR know someone that does and will work for cheap. I would personally go with hiring a regular electrician and, yes, it costs a bunch but I'm not comfortable with that complicated of a procedure. That's just me...
Do you have advice on how to change from a gas range into an electric range? Already checked into having an electrian to many $$$.